Complete blog

Background:
Surprise phone call from RCI offering a week timeshare exchange in Rome - something which had been on search for years, presumably result of cancellation due to economic problems in Italy. Too good to miss. It turned out to be the only timeshare 'in Rome': actually in a newish suburb called
I Giardini di Roma, about as far out as Ciampino and Fumicino Airports, and roughly midway between. At least an hour's travel into Rome each way by public transport.

Day 1: Friday 15 March 2013.
Home

Managed to squeeze all the packing into 1 rucksack and 1 cabin case (pre-checked for size). Just on 10 kg weight limit for each.

Bus from end of the road. Difficulty lifting case on; I shall have to do the lifting from here on. Caught the Airport bus at West End almost immediately, so were very early. Time to check the rucksack size again: just neat.

Ryanair boarding card had to be pre-booked online, and that scanned fine at the Ryanair desk, but was rejected at the boarding gate check, requiring return to Ryanair to get a boarding card. No prob; security checks involved considerable strip-off and repack, but no hurry

 Found a quiet bar at Gate 1 end of boarding lounge. Of course our gate eventually turned out to be up the other end  A bit of queuing and waiting; this was to be the theme of the holiday, transport-wise.

Downloaded bus ticket also worked

At Ciampino, for instance; had to wait best part of an hour for a shuttle bus; Italian style queue. The plane had already been delayed over an hour because of military maneouvres over Rome, so we were very late arriving at  Hotel Maryelen, particularly as we didn't know where we were in relation to the station, or which way to go (and no GPS). Very simple once you know, but as on our first visit, took a very circuitous route.

Even although it must have been about 11 pm, we were welcomed effusively by Loredana, with a hug. What lovely people they are! Quickly installed in room, which now has wifi, and out to  Ristorante Mensa di Bacco  for a late supper. Welcomed there by very friendly waitress, even though kitchen was closed, and had saltimbocca alla Romana (veal and prosciutto) with  insalata misto and a half litre carafe of house red. Very reasonably priced too. Happy ending to a long day.


Day 2: Saturday 16 March
Maryelen Hotel, Via Principe Amadeo

Bright crisp morning

Walked 3 blocks to Stazione Termini: found Turismo in post office opposite platform 24, got instructions to I Cieli - not much different from what we already had. Went in search of Euronics phone shop on lower floor: waste of time - they wanted to sell me Vodafone: NO!

I bought a sim card from WIND in the station, after a long wait and usual palaver of identification and sign all over the place. Got transport pass 24Euros each for 7 days.

Went down to check in to Residence I CIELI DI ROMA in the southern suburbs (I Giardini di Roma - read sticks). Metro (Line B dir. Laurentina) to EUR Magliana (shared with Irish rugby fans bound for the 6-Nations game at Stadio Olympico). Train (dir. Lido di Ostia) to Casal Bernocchi. Local bus 013 to Giardini di Roma (stop: Troisi Modugno) punctuated by waiting and asking. (No GPS or Navigation of course). Beer and panini in cafe, then located I Cieli about 800 metres, up one street on left (Via Francesca Bertini).

Booked in by 13:00. Very pleasant young man in Reception. Upgrade without asking to top floor one-bedroom suite.  Excellent. Couldn't get on the wifi there, or connect to the web on Wind. The young man in Reception spent about an hour trying to help; in the end I had to take it away saying I would go back to Wind.

I Cieli is the rear half of the building on the right. Most of the I Giardini suburb is in this style, supposedly influenced by the English garden city style.

The two seats behind the table make down into an occasional bed.

There were two en suite bathrooms, this the slightly larger, off the living-room/kitchen/studio.

One of two verandah spaces

Being on the top floor there was a view (better in real life) out towards the coast. The buildings below us seem to be a school. Beyond are more buildings in the same style as this one.

Back by bus and train to Pyramide metro station and climbed up to Monte Oppio, area of Nero's Domus Aurea. Wandered from S. Martino ai Monti (closed) down Via in Selce and found S Pietro in Vincoli, approaching up stairs from Cavour.

A fine basilica, Trip Advisor rates it Roman attraction #18/522, with Michelangelo's impressive Moses (unfinished tomb of Julius II).

Also the eponymous relic of St Peter's chains. Round again to S Martino ai Monti. Simple basilica in front of former poorer area of City. Apparently it stands on top of an early basilica, but we didn't know that.

Walked on down Via Merulana towards Sta Maria Maggiore; just before it,  found Sta Prassede up a little side street - a delightful little church with wonderful mosaics and ancient martyrs' sarcophagi. Though comparatively unknown, Tripadvisor rates it attraction #8/552.

9th Century absidal Mosaic in Santa Prassede

Mosaic above entrance to Chapel of S. Zeno, Santa Prassede

Vault of Chapel of S. Zeno

Our brief and only visit this time to Sta Maria Maggiore

Briefly into Sta Maria Maggiore. There was a service on, so only sat briefly to rest our feet, then back to Maryelen, a few blocks away. Early supper at Mensa di Bacco, already crowded, where we were warmly welcomed by our trim and friendly waitress, got into conversation with a middle-aged Australian couple, and ended up drinking a whole litre of house red with pizza/lasagne.



Day 3: Sunday 17 March

Maryelen Hotel.

Still at Maryelen, because the original plan had been for Saturday night at the Opera, 4 blocks away, but that was sold out (no great loss - Verdi's i Due Foscari). The wifi worked fine at Maryelen.

Pleasant sunny morning.

The new Pope was due to hold an Angelus (I thought it was the inauguration, but I was wrong as usual). Made a beeline for the Termini bus station, which was shambolic; there should have been shuttle buses laid on. In fact they only ran as far as Piazza Venezia, leaving the best part of a 2-mile walk, certainly by the route we took, (mis)guided by some friendly young natives. Pleasant walk though, by Via Arenula, and along each bank of the Tiber, crossing by Ponte Garibaldi.

Castel Sant'Angelo from Lungotevere Gianicolense

Got to the Piazza soon after 9:00; it was half empty. We had to pass a fairly perfunctory bag-check and were able to proceed right to the front barrier, which closed off the upper half of the Piazza.

St. Peter's Basilica

After some time I realised there was a steady stream of people going up to the Basilica at the far (RH)
side.

Able to get right into the Basilica, which was crowded,  see the Cardinals processing in to the ceremony; sightseers were allowed fairly close, and one could see and hear quite a bit.

Bernini's Baldaccino

Michelangelo's Pieta

Cardinals in procession to Angelus.

Subsequently we discovered that what we thought was an excellent vantage point was not so, as the Pope was due to appear at a window well down the Piazza, and we had to reposition ourselves in the southern terrace, with a direct but distant view. There were however large video screens all round. And now the crowds were pouring in, with lots of flags and banners, from all over the world. The police were now controlling the entrances with airport type X-Ray machines, and frantically trying to prevent people from clambering over the railings.

Papal address

When he appeared at the window they went wild. I couldn't make much of his address, but apparently he promised to start a process of reform from within, creating a 'chiesa povera e per i poveri'. People seemed to feel that he represented a new direction, and his willingness to go out to the people was warmly received.

We shall see.

 We wandered down to Trastevere, intent on reaching Sta Maria before it would close. Took a wrong road, of course, and had to retrace our footsteps against the exiting crowds. It had turned cold and damp.

I had a beer in Marzio's, facing Sta Maria; recommended for people watching; most of the seats are turned round to face the piazza, but not a lot to watch on a cold wet March day. And I couldn't connect to their wifi.

People watching in the front row

Santa Maria in Trastevere is one of Rome's oldest churches, originally founded in the 3rd century, before Christian churches were allowed inside Rome itself. It has some wonderful 12th and 13th century mosaics.

12th century absidal mosaic in Sta Maria in Trastevere

7th century icon in Capella Altemps, Sta Maria in Trastevere

 We continued down through Trastevere (= across the Tiber) to San Francesco a Ripa, and were pleasantly surprised to find it open. One was able to see Bernini's last big sculpture, of the Ecstasy of Beata Ludovica Albatoni, beatified for her charitable work with the poor - a sort of 16th century Mother Teresa. The look portrayed on her face is very reminiscent of Bernini's famous Ecstasy of Sta Teresa in Sta Maria della Vittoria. We were detained some time in conversation with the sacristan, whose main interest, I suspect, was to enforce the no photos interdiction. No postcards to be seen.

From there to Sta Cecilia but it was closed. By now tired and hungry we staggered up to Ponte Garibaldi and across to Via Arenula, where we were relieved eventually to find a cafe open to serve us pizza and red wine.

Proceeded on to Piazza Venezia, which was thronged with police. It turned out that the president was laying the Crown of the Republic on the Victor Emmanuel Monument (cue bands and fly past), kind of a minor sideshow after Pope Francesco's first Angelus.

Heading for 'home' in the suburbs one passed along above the Circo Massimo and realised that we had seen nothing of the marathon also due to take place that day.

Arrived back after a long and tiring, but satisfying day, memorable for the first Angelus of the new Pope, to find a cold apartment with no heating on. No food in either, but too tired to care.

Day 4: Monday 18 March 2013
I Cieli di Roma
Cold damp windy morning.

Woke up to a cold flat; no heating, no hot water, shower a cold trickle. And no food.
Heating controls found behind the living room/studio door.

Breakfast postponed till later in Rome (much later, as it turned out). Mixed it with the pendolari (commuters) to metro station Colosseo, for my must see #1 - Basilica San Clemente.

San Clemente is in foreground, behind Colosseo. S. Giovanni in Laterano at right margin, and Sta Maria Maggiore at top of picture. Note how fora and other areas are covered by farmland at end of 16th century.

San Clemente in the rain; entrance round left on Via S. Giovanni

Situated half way along the Via San Giovanni in Laterano, it wasn't too difficult to find, though it was umbrella weather. There were quite a few visitors, some being conducted by the resident green-habited Irish Dominican sisters. There is a beautiful 12th century absidal mosaic depicting Christ as the tree of life, and some fine frescoes, including an important one from the early 15th century of Santa Caterina of Alexandria about to be martyred. No photos, unfortunately.

S. Clemente: 12th Century apse mosaic

Below the 12th century basilica is an older 4th century church,  with frescoes of the life and work of
S. Clemente , Pope Clement I, third successor to St Peter in Rome, sainted for his missionary work and miracles in the Crimea, where he was exiled by the Emperor Trajan. Also associated with this church is Saint Cyril, who was sent with his brother Methodius by the Byzantine Emperor to preach to the Slavs in Moravia. St Cyril devised an alphabet for the Slav language, hence the term cyrillic script applied to the Russian alphabet. St Cyril brought the remains of S. Clemente back to Rome, before dying there himself in 869AD.

Saints Cyril and Methodius, missionary brothers to the Slavs

And below this are two buildings from the second century AD, one an important residence, with its own running water supply, and the other a temple with an altar to Mithraic mysteries, a mysterious religion of the eastern Mediterranean dating to the 2nd century BC with some ideas and traditions remarkably similar to Christian.

Mithraic altar: 2nd century AD: S. Clemente, lowest level

Unfortunately while we were down there a large group of unruly French schoolchildren descended on us, making it difficult to move around and get the layout of the excavations. They would have been far better in the Colosseum, pitted against other wild animals.

Emerging into the rain in Via S. Giovanni we proceeded along to San Giovanni in Laterano. This huge basilica, originally founded in 313AD by the Emperor Constantine, but burnt down twice and rebuilt several times; was the original cathedral of the Bishop of Rome before St Peter's was built, and the Lateran Palace next door was the papal residence. The Pope has a throne in the Basilica, and he alone celebrates mass at the high altar under its magnificent Gothic baldacchino.

S. Giovanni in Laterano: the high altar with Gothic baldacchino; papal throne in background

The Basilica was remodelled by the baroque sculptor and architect Borromini: mid 17th century.

Nave of S. Giovanni

One enters through the north facade, imposing enough, but we emerged from the east facade, surmounted by Alessandro Galilei's 15 huge statues of Christ and the Apostles, visible for miles around. Unfortunately, not having done my homework thoroughly enough, we didn't visit the renowned cloisters, nor the Scala Santa, said to have been climbed by Christ to his trial before Pontius Pilate, and brought to Rome by Constantine's mother Helena (along with many other relics). Devout believers climb the 28 steps, praying on each, on their knees.

Found the metro with some dificulty, under the City wall and round the corner. The train was packed, and made it to the next station (Manzoni) and ground to a halt; apparently trouble up ahead at Termini. As we were only two stops away we decided to get out and walk; the trouble was, when we got out, we didn't know which way. After wandering around a bit I noticed an obelisk up a side street and thought that should be a landmark: it was, the oldest and tallest in Rome, in the Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano. Round again to the metro station, more easily this time, and smoothly through to Termini - for breakfast, about 2:00pm. Found a recommended self-service restaurant, and had a substantial lunch, something (tuna I think) in salsa which I didn't identify and a half litre of cabernet-sauvignon. 

Back to Wind, as promised, and spent probably over an hour there, and got nowhere. Their eventual verdict was that Wind didn't have any data on my phone, sorry. No offer of refund; I suppose I still have a working phone connection, just no internet. I really don't think the young people in the shop had any expertise.

We took a wander round the outside of the Station to identify the time and place of departure of the shuttle bus for our return journey to Ciampino (Via Marsala). Gone 4:00pm by this time: an opportunity to mix it again with the pendolari, right up close. Got off the 013 bus in I Giardini di Roma a stop early (Troisi Paolo Stoppa) at the supermarket and stocked up with prosciutto, a soft cheese (rubbish), lettuce and tomatoes, what I thought to be wraps, but were more like pizza bases, some baps, a bottle of prosecco and one of primitivo. Well the last two went down OK, and the flat was warm as toast.


Day 5: Tuesday 19 March 2013
I Cieli di Roma
Sunny: 'ideal start to the day'

Day of the papal incoronazione - the inaugural mass. Set out sharp and took train through to Pyramide, then had a long wait for a bus on Via Marmorata. Eventually got a 23 up the Lungotevere (left bank) to Ponte Principe Amadeo Savoia Aosta and walked across to the Borgo Santo Spirito. The ceremony was already well under way, and there were giant videoscreens along the way, and loudspeakers blaring out the service and music.

The Piazza was thronged, and there was of course no prospect of getting near the Basilica: that and the upper Piazza were reserved for the great and the good, including foreign representatives. I wonder who the Brits were?

We fought our way to a vantage point in the southern colonnade, but came away after a while and threaded our way to a Borgo cafe probably in the Via Mascherina, just through the passetto,  the papal escape route to Castel Sant'Angelo.  There we had a peaceful beer and coffee and wrote Vatican postcards, to the sound of the inaugural mass.

We crossed back into Rome over the ornate pedestrian Ponte Sant'Angelo, and wandered down towards Sant'Andrea dell Valle, but found the Corso Vittorio Emmanuele barricaded off for free passage for diplomatic cars. Did eventually get across and down into the old commercial/Jewish quarter leading to the Campo di Fiori market, very lively, full of tourists and locals.

Toured the square and settled on a cafe with a jazz band, followed by a very good accordionist beside. Had a large bowl of tuna salad, a large glass of red wine and a cup of coffee for 10 euros.

From there along Via del Plebiscito past Berlusconi's palazzo.

into Piazza Venezia,

then up past Trajan's market to Via Nazionale, and out to the Teatro dell'Opera to enquire about concert tickets. After some discussion, a bargain seat was obtained in the balcony for a Verdi celebration concert with the Orchestra of the Opera under Ricardo Muti on the Thursday evening, and a free ticket for a string concert of the Goldberg Variations on the Saturday at the Accademia di Sta. Cecilia, which turned out to be near the Spanish Steps.

Made a quick recce of the route to the nearest metro (Termini) to be sure of getting back to I Cieli after the Thursday concert. Took the 40 express bus back to the Piazza Vaticana to post the postcards with Vatican stamps, and then had to wait a considerable time for the 23 bus from Lungotevere back to Pyramide, and eventually arrived back at the supermarket at Troisi Stoppa, to get ham, salad, anchovies and a prepared dish of tomato and cheese ravioli, very tasty, with a bottle of primitivo.

'Excellent day; holy part done now'.


Day 6: Wednesday 20 March 2013
I Cieli di Roma
Dry; overcast.

Set out early, in the commuter rush hour. Changed to the metro at EUR Magliani, and took Line B to Termini and Line A on north to Flaminio, emerging under Bernini's Porta Flaminia, into the Piazza del Popolo. This was the site of the ancient gateway of Rome to the north, via the Via Flaminia, the road to Rimini. 

This to be a  Caravaggio day. On the northern side of the Piazza, under the Pincio Gardens is the minor Basilica of  Santa Maria del Popolo  which houses a rich collection of art, and notably two Caravaggios, the Crucifixion of St Peter and the Conversion of St Paul, with typical dramatic use of light and shade (chiaroscuro). The Church was rather dark and one had to pay to have the chapels, particularly the Cerasi Chapel, illuminated.

Conversion on the Way to Damascus

Crucifixion of St. Peter

Across the Piazza, three streets (the tridente) fan out to the south: the Via del Babuino, leading to the Spanish Steps, the Via del Corso, named after barbaric races that were held on it up till the late 19th century, and leading to the Piazza Venezia, and Via di Ripetta leading to the Ara Pacis and the Tevere. The three streets are separated by two apparently identical churches (the chiese gemelle). They are in fact different in size and shape: the left hand one, Sta Maria in Montesanto, closed on our visit, is on a smaller  plot of land, and it was the genius of the architect Carlo Rainaldi  to make them appear identical - classical with a baroque touch.

High Altar with 'miraculous portrait' : Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli (Roma)

Also visited a couple of not very interesting churches further down the Corso, before locating the Accademia di Santa Cecilia, site of Saturday's concert, in Via dei Greci, between Via del Corso and Via del Babuino which runs past the Spanish Steps.
Continued round onto Via dei Condotti, past all the designer-label shops (even Ferrari!) and along to the Via di Ripetta, looking for the Ara Pacis. Found it, and across from it the unspectacular green mound that covers the Mausoleum of Augustus, but a cafe became the priority for the moment and we decided to return later to the Ara Pacis (and never did).

Found a little cafe a few hundred metres down the Via di Ripetta, and assuaged the inner person. It then seemed most important to strike south-east to catch the churches before they would close, around midday, so we headed to S. Luigi dei Francesi, our second main goal of the day.

San Luigi dei Francesi

Calling of Saint Matthew

The Inspiration of Saint Matthew

Martyrdom of Saint Matthew

While there the Church was invaded by a noisy horde of French adolescents. On emerging from S. Luigi, I realised that I had mislaid a guide book, so I had to retrace my steps to the cafe, and arranged to meet again in Santa Maria sopra Minerva.

Annunciation (1485), by Antoniazzo Romano - shows Cardinal Juan de Torquemada presenting girls who received a dowry from his Guild of the Annunciation to the Virgin

Michelangelo's Christ the Redeemer

The exercise took a little longer than expected because I got myself lost on he return journey and ended up at St Ignatius's Church. When I finally located Sta Maria I was disappointed to find it much darker than I remembered it with its striking blue vaulting. We pushed on for a brief visit to Sant'Ignazio Church,  giving the Pantheon a body swerve (never been one of my favourites) but didn't stay long, having spent some considerable time on a previous visit.

The trompe l'œil ceiling of Sant'Ignazio

Headed west along the Via del Pie di Marmo towards Piazza Navona and found ourselves outside the delightful little Borromini church of Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza,  and remarkably a service was about to take place in an hour's time. Sant'Ivo is normally only open on a Sunday morning, so this was a rare opportunity. We grabbed a quick bite of lunch round the corner (toasted panini and beer like the natives), and returned for the appointed time. This appeared to be some special occasion, and the congregation who began to gather obviously all knew each other, so we felt interlopers, and took some quick snaps and beat a strategic retreat.

Borromini's little jewel

Borromini uses concave and convex curves to give an impression of greater space

... and then the complex dome pulls it all together

It was raining quite heavily now, and we decided to cut and run, before the rush hour. Jumped on a bus to Termini, and back to I Cieli, picking up shopping for supper (a cheese and pasta bake - had to be microwaveable - and a bottle of chianti) at the supermarket at Troisi Stoppa.

I at last managed to get the wifi to work at I Cieli, with a very weak signal. The phone didn't get it, only the netbook. Getting connected involved making a phone call; my phone number is my username for the wifi. Frankly, I'm not impressed with Italian IT.

I'll try Latitude now on the Netbook: strange. I don't know if this is a reference:
https://maps.google.com/maps/myplaces?hl=en&ll=41.788561,12.395668&spn=0.011487,0.027595&ctz=0&t=m&z=15.

Yes it is, apparently. With judicious use of zooming you can see Residence I Cieli di Roma at the bottom right, off Via Francesca Bertini, near where it joins Marcello Mastroianni. Our supermarket is not marked, but is north-west at the junction of Massimo Troisi and Paolo Stoppa. Casal Bernocchi railway station is even further north-west, beside the Via Ostiense. Wonderful.


Day 7: Thursday 21 March 2013
I Cieli di Roma
Fair

Destination Foro Romano. Leisurely start; good run in to Colosseo metro station. Found an entrance to Foro quickly (not the one recommended by the guide book, which is right round on the other side) and took audio guides; not convinced by these as a guide, but good for historical background.

Arco di Tito

Began with the Arch of Titus, the oldest triumphal arch in Rome, and the start of the triumphal route along the Via Sacra. It was built by Emperor Domitian in 82 AD to celebrate the conquest (and destruction) of Jerusalem in 70 AD by his father Emperor Vespasian and brother Emperor Titus. Identified the menorah being carried in the triumphal procession.

View across the Temple of Venus and Roma ( the largest Temple in ancient Rome) to the Colosseum

The first part of the Via Sacra was closed off,  as was the Temple of Venus and Roma, (poor do: we were entitled to entry in the ticket price), so climbed up to the Basilica of Maxentius, or more properly, of Maxentius and Constantine, since although it was started by the western Emperor Maxentius, it was completed by Constantine the Great, who defeated the former at the battle of Ponte Milvio.  The massive remains, which are less than a third, give some idea of the size of these Roman temples - though the Temple of Venus and Roma was even bigger.

View down the north side of the Via Sacra: at far right a corner of the Basilica of Maxentius, then the round temple of Romulus (Maxentius's son), which forms an apse for the Church of Santi Cosma e Damiano (6th cent.); then the Temple of Antoninus and Faustina. Beyond that, the Curia; (the perspective hides the empty space of the Basilica Aemilia, and at the far end, the Arch of Septimius Severus. The modern Vittoriano is visible above in the background.

View looking west along the Forum: from medieval times up till the 18th century it was buried and used for grazing cattle (Campo Vaccino)

Descended from the Basilica of Maxentius and climbed up again to the Temple of Romulus. Looking at the plan of the Forum on the map, one has the impression that it is level. Honey taint so. The Via Sacra runs down a little valley to the main sewer, the Cloaca Maxima, and then climbs up steeply to the Capitoline Hill. All the temples are built up on the slopes above this valley, so it is quite tiresome climbing up and down.

Temple of Romulus, son of Maxentius

Next we came to the Temple of Antoninus and Faustina. The best preserved of the Forum temples, by virtue of having been converted into a church (S. Lorenzo and Miranda) it gives a good idea of just how monumental these temples were. There was no access.

Temple of Antoninus and Faustina

At a lower level was the site of the Basilica Aemilia. This seems to have been an important business location, and had below a row of shops, possibly financial businesses, facing the Forum. A fragment of marble frieze at the back illustrates the story of Tarpeia.

The Curia Julia which housed the Senate, was closed. I'd have been quite interested to see inside; it's always seemed dark and uncomfortable to me. Perhaps that's how parliaments ought to be. Its present brick exterior is rather featureless, but it would originally have had marble facing, and it has I believe quite an ornate floor. Again, it's been burnt down and rebuilt several times.

Curia Julia on the right, Arch of Septimius Severus left. The Church of Santi Luca e Martina looks down on the Forum from above. The dark stones in the foreground may be the Lapis Niger

The top end of the Foro was closed off. Went back round by the remains of the Temple of Caesar built on the spot where he was cremated, not much to see, and  the Regia,  the office of the Pontifex Maximus. Tried to find the Lapis Niger without success, probably because I wasn't sure what to look for, or where - limitation of the audioguide + tiredness.

Turned west past the site of the Temple of Castor and Pollux with its three striking pillars, and past the site of the Basilica Julia with its nothing much to see, and up past the eight towering pillars of the Temple of Saturn  and the three Corinthian pillars of the  Temple of Vespasian, finishing up above and to the west of the roped off Arch of Septimius Severus.

Returned down the Via Sacra past the House of the Vestal Virgins. I didn't look at this in detail, but it seemed an attractive site. Our tickets included a visit to the Colosseum, which we did not feel up to now, but felt we had to return the audio-guides (not altogether clear), so we retraced footsteps to the gate and out, tired and hungry. We had given more time, and seen more of the Forum, than I had foreseen, but could still have seen more, particularly if I had done my homework; and we did not even attempt the Palatine Hill. The tickets are good for two days, and it would make sense to allocate the second day to the Palatine.

Walked up the Via di S. Gregorio to Circo Massimo, and had a salad and glass of white wine at Cafe di Circo Massimo, on Viale Aventino, opposite the FAO. Then decided to take a tram ride, the one form of public transport we hadn't tried. Took it down to Ostiense (Pyramide); not very far, so decided to stay on and explore in the other direction. After what seemed a long way, past the city walls, and into more working class districts, we decided to transfer to the metro back into town; turned out to be Policlinico, only two stops from Termini!

Next project: National Museum of Rome  (Palazzo Massimo alle Terme). Molto interessante sculptures from Republic times, and frescoes particularly from the  Villa of Livia.

The Boxer

Collage with various materials including glass and precious stones

Fresoes from Livia's villa

Across to the self service restaurant in Termini Station for a bite of supper and to mark time till the Opera concert. Choice much more limited than at lunch time, but had a nice salad, and knew to sit beside the shelf with the oils and vinegars! Still time to kill, so visited a very large bookshop in the station concourse with lots of modern novels in all languages, and good foreign languages section upstairs. But expensive.

Walked down to the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma  in Via Vimiale. Modernised in1958, the Opera lacks the presence of the baroque, classical and gothic aspects of many of the opera houses in northern Europe, e g Paris, Vienna, Budapest, Prague, Leipzig but the acoustics are sound.

I was amused to see at least five police persons directing traffic in front; I have never seen even one policeman at the Festival Theatre in Edinburgh. I can sit there for half an hour or more on a double yellow line (touch wood), but the Via Vimiale is a busy narrow one-way street. I had a little walkabout, orienting myself to Hotel Maryelen, and locating, I thought, a source for souvenir ball pens, before settling down with a large glass of vino della casa in Via Vimiale, and writing up notes while admiring the technique of the hustler-waiter who boldly  accosted passers-by in English, French, and Japanese, more hesitantly in German.

The Opera programme was a commemorative concert for the 200th anniversary of Verdi's birth, with the Orchestra of the Opera conducted by Ricardo Muti: overtures to Un Ballo in Maschera, Macbeth, Giovanna d'Arco, Il Trovatore, Nabucco, ending with Va il Pensiero. 'Splendid soloists.'

No trouble getting back to Termini, but long wait at Pyramide for a train connection, and long wait for the 013 bus at Casal Bernocchi; got back a bit after 11:00pm.
 

Day 8: Friday 22 March 2013
I Cieli di Roma
Fair: high cloud

Today was to be a non-Rome day - a trip to Ostia Antica.

Bus to Casal Bernocchi to take the Lido train in the opposite direction. Arrived to find the station closed, to the consternation of another couple of passengers on the bus; and a notice announcing a transport strike: what are these strikes ever about? RIP Maggie Thatcher; I have had a solution years ago, but no politicians  or union bosses really want a solution; and we suffer.

Our companions pointed out, quite sensibly, that we wanted a bus in the opposite direction from them; so we traipsed and stood; observed with limited schadenfreude the endless stream of auto commuters heading north, We only had buses; one after another, 'deposito' or 'fuori servizio'. Decided to walk down and under the motorway underpass to a town centre, we thought. Under the bridge a bus hove in site; breathless 'sprint' back to the bus stop:
- Could we go to Acilio, and transfer there to a bus for Ostia Antica?
- A mia desgrazia no; torno a termino, non c'e piu di autobus.

We disembarked back at Casal Bernocchi; obviously there wouldn't be a bus back 'home'; time for a coffee and regroup.

Sitting in the cafe, I see a bus heading back northwards from Casal Bernocchi: zut! or whatever they say in  Iti. Ok, set out on the long walk back; actually not that far, but we have no idea, and the roads are dauntingly narrow and twisting. Three quarters of an hour later, arrived near 'our local supermarket' - never did get its name - we sat down on a bench for a rest, and ecco a bus; too late to make a difference.

"I've now got Latitude working from  beside the computer in the downstairs hall, and I've also updated my mail, hence this reply on the phone from upstairs in the flat (floor 4=top). Having time to experiment 'cos public transport is on strike. Trains still run but station is closed. Got a bus eventually but driver said it was his last run and we wouldn't get another bus anywhere. Turned out to be not quite true. Having given up on our local bus home we set out to walk and were then passed by the bus. So here I am marooned in the flat. There should be a 5 hour window later but we won't try to go up to Rome: not long enough to do anything, transport will probably be chocabloc and we could be stranded. Joys of foreign travel."

I'm working on the netbook now in the evening. I sent quite a long reply this morning (above), on my phone, describing the hassle arising from a transport strike here. Actually, we have had quite a nice day chilling out, down to the local cafe for a panini etc. I was a bit footsore with an aching back from trekking round Rome, so being marooned here in the suburbs has been a waste of site-seeing time, but a rest.

Side comment: It TV is rifiuto (= rubbish). It politics are incomprehensible, but probably also rifiuto,
It wine is molto drinkabile. Frascati was medio; Chianti classico ran out too soon.

Last evening here in I Cieli di Roma. Just when I got the wifi working, sort of. I have to go down to the entrance to get a good connection, then I can work up here on top floor,  ... I think ...

Check out tomorrow and back up to Maryelen near Termini Station. Wifi there was good. Next two days should be crowded. Museums to visit on multi tickets, and two concerts. Need to catch bus for airport at 6:30 am on Monday.

Italian sim was a disaster.  Dont think the Itis have really got IT technology yet, No doubt they're good at making coffee pots etc.- and singing. Oh, and football I suppose.


Day 9: Saturday 23 March 2013
I Cieli di Roma
Weather dry, fortunately.

Packed up, tidied up, disposed of rubbish to bins across road, booked out of I Cieli and recovered deposit. Very pleased with accommodation.

Farewell to our friendly supermarket

... and farewell to I Giardini di Roma

Returned to Hotel Maryelen with our luggage. Loredana was very kind, and had her daughter prepare the room right away, though we should have been happy just to deposit the luggage.

Set out for the Baths of Diocletian  part of the Museo Nazionale and the Church of Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri, said to be part of the same building (yes, but no access from one to other). This was just across the Piazza della Repubblica, but when we got there, we found it hotching with police vehicles and police in every style and colour of uniform, like a film set of Ruritania. It transpired that there was a funeral of a Chief of Police (died at 62) taking place in Sta Maria.

We hung around for some time (well I had a beer in the cafe portico overlooking the Piazza) and then climbed up onto the wall of the fountain, but could not get close enough to have much of a view.

Minor excitement when a woman apparently fainted and fell off the wall into the fountain, and was duly carted off by ambulance.

Eventually the funeral part exited from the Church, the crowd slowly dispersed,

and we went round the corner to the Museum.

Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri

Zodiacal emblem on Meridian: Aries

Popped across to Termini to the self-service for a late lunch: very quiet and limited selection. Bought a transport ticket for the evening's return: day ticket not value, because expires at midnight. Then took a rather roundabout shortcut to Sant'Andrea della Valle  (the Tosca church, in Corso Vittorio Emmanuele) to check arrangements for the evening's performance of Pergolesi's Stabat Mater. Went down Cavour, and needed to zig-zag across to reach IV Novembre, but ended up going up Milano to Nazionale - not the shortest route. Found a rehearsal in progress at Sant'Andrea: didn't sound too clever; perhaps it would be all right on the night. Headed for Piazza Navona, looking for a restaurant used on previous visit. Found closed and ended up eating on Navona; not the best of ideas; expensive for mediocre food.

Getting dusky and cool. facing Sant'Agnese in Agone - know the feeling. Had a brief peep in, but it was very dark.

Just time for a quick visit to Palazzo Altemps, open till 8:00pm (Saturday evening!) and we still had Museo Nazional tickets (Scottish or what?). It has a wonderful collection, not huge, but a gem; and so central - not to be missed.

Don't think I'd have liked the Romans much; here they're giving some barbarians a hard time

She made a fatal mistake putting his uniform in the tumble dryer

The Stabat Mater was very late beginning. The Church was cold. And the acoustics were poor. Came away early.

Sant'Andrea della Valle

 

Jumped on a #60 bus for Termini. Packed like sardines; no possibility of convalid-ing the tickets. Glad to get back to Maryelen.


Day 10: Sunday 24 March 2013
Hotel Maryelen
Pleasant morning

Quiet start. Walked to Scuderie del Quirinale  by a rather devious route (missed XXIV Maggio by one block and had to climb up Dataria). Very short queue at Scuderia for the Tiziano exhibition. I walked along V. Quirinale to Gian Lorenzo Bernini's Sant'Andrea al Quirinale,

Sant'Andrea al QuirinaleBroader than it is long

then to San Carlino (the wonderful little Borromini Church of San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane).

San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane: Smaller than it looks

A sacristan was preparing olive branches in the cloister for the Palm Sunday service.

The cloister of San Carlino. Noted the alternately inverted balustrade pilasters.
Borromini had wanted to be buried here, but as a suicide, not allowed

Went on to Santa Maria della Vittoria intending to see Bernini's great Ecstasy of Saint Teresa, but found a little Palm Sunday service starting just inside the door, so I couldn't get through to the Cornara Chapel. Wandered around outside, and poked my head into San Bernardo alle Terme  in the Piazza S. Bernardo. I didn't linger there for some reason, but apparently it is quite interesting. Architecturally it may resemble a miniature of the Pantheon, and it was a peripheral rotunda of the baths of Diocletian, which gives some indication of how huge they were, since they stretched from the other side of the Piazza della Republica. I tried Sta. Maria again, but now there was a service in progress, so had to return to rendezvous at Quirinale.

Two of a kind: Maderna's Sta. Susanna and Sta Maria della Vittoria

Fontana dell'Acqua Felice
Piazza di S. Bernardo

Decided to visit the Quirinal Palace, residence of the President of the Italian Republic.

While queueing, realised that a concert was about to begin at noon in the Cappella dell'Annunziata.

Fortunately as we approached the biglietteria we were ushered forwardas anziani so I got in gratuito for once. Rushed through the throngs; unfortunately the Capella was near the end of the apartments; it was a great pity to be unable to take in all the sumptuous furnishings - but made it to the start of the concert, which was by a pair of Brazilians, cello and guitar. Very pleasant restful music, though we were slightly distracted by a wandering infant in the 'care' (or not) of a dusky matron.

Largo di Torre Argentina, 

 the Area Sacra, site of four unnamed temples, and now a cat sanctuary

Wandered down to the Piazza Venezia, and from there along the Via delle Botteghe Oscure, past the  Crypta Balbi, part of the Museo Nazionale, closed of course, it being Sunday, as were most restaurants. Eventually ended up at a very nice little Jewish restaurant, the Yotvata, in Piazza Cenci, just off the Lungotevere Cenci, and had a plate of assorted mini pizzas.

He's at it again

Jumped on a #64 bus at Venezia back to Termini, again too crowded to be able to convalidate tickets, and returned to Maryelen to pack.

Metro to Spagna

and arrived early at the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia.  I was pleased to find a small informal bar in the conservatoire, but less so to find that it closed at the start of the performance. However, I was able to find a congenial alternative just across the street. Interested that 2 or 3 police showed up in due course, visited in the conservatoire, then the bar, and took up station for the exodus: hardly necessary, I should have thought - maybe to discourage vehicles in the narrow Via dei Greci.

The concert was apparently very satisfactory: Goldberg Variations played by a chamber string orchestra of about 20 students of the Accademia dell'Opera. A nice way to end the Roman holiday.

Supper at Mensa di Bacco: our pert waitress wasn't there, but we got in conversation with a young French couple.: 'most enjoyable'. Returning to Maryelen, checked to find that the return flight was not as early as thought, and didn't need to catch bus till 07:30. Loredana relieved to be informed; she had been prepared to rise for 05:00! 


Day 11: Monday 25 March
Departure from Maryelen

Cordial leave-taking. Uneventful departure, bus from Via Marsala to Ciampino.

Arrived home to find lying snow - a rude shock.

Epilogue:
I had billed this as the last visit to Rome. Didn't even visit the Trevi Fountain, far less throw in a coin. But ...
An awful lot not seen: Capitoline Hill; Palatine Hill; Terme di Caracalla; Crypta Balbi; Ara Pacis; Palazzos, various; only touched on the museums; ...
Never travelled on a little bus.
Didn't get to Ostia Antica, Frascati, Tivoli.

A rividerci Roma.